A visit to Mahdi Bagh
I visited Nagpur after a gap of 31 years. Recently, I had learnt from my brother about a small but significant community of Shia Bohra Muslims, known as 'Mahdi Bagh'. I had heard of Ismaili Bohras and Dawoodi Bohras and the Ahmadias but I had never heard of Mahdi Bagh before. Mahdi Bagh live in Nagpur and also have their religious headquarters there. My brother had met Riyaz at Poona and learnt from him about his unique community.
Since I was to go to Nagpur, I decided to visit Mahdi Bagh. My brother spoke to Riyaz and Riyaz, in turn, arranged through his cousin Abid Hussain to take me to Mahdi
Bagh.
Abid, a young and charming man, took me first to the 120-year-old Mahdi Bagh Colony where almost the entire
community lives. The colony was established when a few Ismaili Bohra members questioned the basis of appointment of their new religious leader. They felt that the selection was not done on merit and as per the tenets of their faith. They refused to accept the new leadership and did not fall in line. This led to their persecution and made them flee from
Bombay to Nagpur where they found a safe haven.
Probably they chose Nagpur as the number of Bohras living in Nagpur was negligible at that time. Yet, it was not too far from their original habitat, Bombay. The total number of individuals who fled Bombay was not more than 25, including men, women and children. This small band was led by two men of faith and conviction, Aka Malak and Aka Badaruddin.
Today, the number has grown to over a thousand. Apart from Mahdi Bagh, some of them have gone and settled in Vijag and Ujjain. There are a few families in Dubai, the UK and USA also. However, all these families have their roots in Mahdi Bagh in Nagpur. The number of families in Vijag is about 150 and in Ujjain, about 75.
It is said when they first arrived they had nothing. They had to leave behind all their wealth, land and property, as they had to flee the place at night. In order to buy the land on which the Mahdi Bagh Colony stands, the wives of Malak and Badar sold the
jewellery they were wearing.
Today, the Mahdi Bagh Colony is spread over 26 acres of originally a much bigger plot of land. A large part of the land was donated for public purpose or acquired by the government. The entire 26 acres which remain are a private residential colony with a high compound wall around it. As one enters the colony through the wrought iron gates and slowly meanders through the little lanes flanked by bungalows, one is greeted by the sweet fragrance of blossoms and the chirping of
birds. In the cool shade of trees, which form a blissful canopy to beat the relentless sun, one forgets the heat and dust of the concrete jungles of the city one's just left behind.
Originally, on arrival, the community built only a mosque; a dining hall, a
kitchen and a small barrack-type of accommodation to live. Everybody ate together in the common kitchen and lived in simple barracks. They also grew their own grains,
vegetables and fruits, which were supplied to the common kitchen for the consumption of all. Today, the vegetables and
food grains are not grown any more.
The barracks have given way to a large number of houses and many of those are grand and palatial, while some are small and modest. The community also has its own swimming pool, playground, children's park and a pond with an overbridge, a small teak plantation, cut-flower beds, tennis court and a mini golf course.
Being merchants, in the beginning, the community started a common shop at Itwari. Later, they established the first department store of Nagpur at Sadar, which was very popular among the British. Slowly, community shops gave way to individual shops and businesses.
The community always laid great emphasis on education. Both men and women are 100 per cent educated. The education of girls started more than 77 years ago. Since then they are being educated in good schools. Riyaz and Abid Hussain's mothers, both in their seventies, had gone to English medium schools and speak excellent English. From the early part of the 20th century, most of the girls were educated in convents and other good schools. The women of the community stopped confining themselves in pardha (veil) more than 30 years ago with the blessings of the then religious leader.
In the beginning, a school was started in the colony itself. Later, it was felt necessary to mainstream with local population and Mahdi Bagh community started sending their children to schools in Nagpur. A lot of educated youth have become professionals, doctors, engineers, teachers, government servants and successful businessmen.
The community lives like a huge extended family. The women spend lot of time outdoor, sitting in the open under the trees, chatting with each other in small groups. There is no traffic or security problem. Their children play safely within the compound wall.
The community feasts are a cherished event in Mahdi Bagh. On solemn occasions like Moharram, community feeding is simple and the menu is firni or kheer and kichdi. However, on happy occasions, a lot more rich sweets like shahi (varkha puri) and tukda are prepared.
The community feasts are often held in the big dinning hall. One or the other businessman of the community sponsors these feasts. No invitations are sent out and the announcement is merely made on the mike and everyone in the colony turns up for the meal. The colony also houses the office of the community and the official residence of the religious head, which, he occupies whenever he is at Mahdi
Bagh.
To be continued…
