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The Kulfi man

Chennai Citizen

On a hot summer's day when the scorching sun beats down mercilessly, a cool Kulfi is welcome whether you are young or old, man, woman or child. The ringing of the bells on the kulfi vendor's cycle is like a call that cannot be ignored. As the bell sounds followed by the light of the petromax lamp, children in particular rush outside so that they do not miss him. The kulfi, which is an Indian ice cream, is wolfed down even before the vendor is out of sight at the corner of the street.

All work during the night and rest at night. This is how kulfi vendor Nawab's life goes on. We had a chat with Nawab even while tasting the delicious kulfi. Nawab says, "I have been in this profession right from the year 1972". A resident of Foreshore estate area in Chennai, Nawab started his life on a meagre salary of Rs.150 per month. His boss was a Telugu speaking person, for whom he sold kulfi in the Ice House area every night from 1972 to 1985. Gradually he learnt the tricks of the trade and he now not only sells kulfi but makes it too!

Independence is something he values now. "After learning the work fully, I do not favour working under somebody as an employee". In one day he makes kulfi from 10 litres of milk and sells it. "First the milk should be boiled well and cooled thoroughly. Later corn flour, sugar, cashew nut powder, vanilla essence and milk khoa should be added to the cooled milk and dissolved without lumps. This mixture should be filled in small plastic containers and sealed with rubber bands. These containers should be placed in a bronze vessel and topped with ice and salt. Shake the vessel thoroughly. When the ice and salt gets dissolved the milk gets solidified and that becomes the delicious, tasty and cool kulfi".

Nawab recollects that way back in 1985, iron containers were being used for the purpose. While removing the kulfis with knives there was a chance that rust from the sides of the container would contaminate the kulfi. Realising the hazards involved, plastic containers came in. Depending upon the size of the containers the price is fixed. After expenses the earnings amount to about Rs.100-150 per day, he says.

A natural question. What happens to leftovers after the day's sale? Is it wasted? Pat comes the reply. "Wastage? No. When you mix the previous day's kulfi while preparing fresh ones the taste and sweetness will be enhanced." Nawab begins his work at about four in the evening and continues till midnight. Asked why he does not sell kulfis during the day, he says, "The frequent opening and closing of the pot will make the ice lose its chill and the kulfi won't become solid. If ice cubes worth about Rs.50 are used at night, ice cubes worth Rs.100 will be needed during the day. So economically it is not feasible".

Kulfi is only part of his wares. In rainy weather he switches to hot "pattani sundal". Asked about problems he faces because of moving around at night, he points to drunkenness as a major hazard. If by chance a gang of four or five wants kulfi and refuses to pay, he obliges to escape harm. He has a comment to make on the police too. Not only do the police refuse to help in such situations, they also take the kulfis for free!

Nawab has a son, Sikander, who is in the fourth standard now. "All the hardships and sufferings experienced by me in this profession should not happen to my son. I want to give him good education and he should take up a job", says Nawab with dreams in his eyes.

Author: Nandakumar
Translated by
Sujatha Pradeep

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