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 My
local host was the brother of Mr.Valsan, our Sri Lankan Deputy High
Commissioner in Madras. He and his wife drove me around in Colombo,
down the Galle Face, to the Port, and to the temple of Buddha called
'Ganga Rama' situated inside a beautiful lake in Colombo. They also
drove me to 'Majestic City' and 'Liberty Plaza', two important
shopping centres in the city. They also took me to a fine Indian
restaurant called 'Saras' so that, I could get over my homesickness,
but the fact is that one does not feel homesick in Sri Lanka. Food
in 'Saras' is good and you can sup on 'Nans and Tikkas and Palak
Paneers'.
It is very interesting to watch an amalgam of
Buddhist, Hindu, Tamil and Christian traditions & cultures in Sri
Lanka. Hinduism and Buddhism flourished side by side. At Negambo, (a
beautiful Catholic fishing village and well-known sea resort only an
hour's drive from Colombo), there is a Muruga Temple, as in many
other parts of Sri Lanka. Every person in this village, be it a
catholic, an anglican or of any other religion is proud of their 'Vel
Festival' in which all of them participate carrying their own
Kavadis and other offerings to the Lord with six faces, the
Shanmugha or 'Kathargama' as he is known in Sri Lanka.
Muruga is a popular deity in Sri Lanka and the famous and great
temple of Kathargama is visited by people of all faiths and God's
presence is experienced by all. Another temple very popular with all
the Sri Lankans irrespective of their faith is the temple of
Muneeshwaran at Chilar (Puttlam) 70 km. from Colombo. It is also
called 'the temple of curse'. If someone has wronged you, you go to
the temple of Muneeshwaran, and curse him. This is a way of
obtaining justice from God, when everything else fails. Similarly
every ancient buddhist temple complex has Devals or shrines in the
compound, devoted to various Hindu and local Gods and Goddesses.
There are ritualistic obligations to be performed towards these,
during daily prayers as well as festivals.
Kandy: This tradition is very profound in Kandy, where the
'temple of tooth' is situated. The temple of tooth houses the 'tooth
relic' of Buddha which was brought all the way from India by Hema
Mala and Harshavardhan. The legend is that when war broke in
Northern India, and the stupa where the tooth was located, was in
danger of plunder and destruction, Hemamalini who had hidden the
'tooth relic' inside her hairdo made the treacherous journey to Sri
Lanka accompanied by her husband Harshavardhan. Thus they brought
the 'tooth relic' of Buddha, safely to Sri Lanka in the 3rd Century
B.C. The original temple of tooth was built at 'Anuradhapuram' which
was later on shifted to other locations depending upon the wars and
power struggle in the country. It was a belief that whoever had the
'tooth' would rule the country. Anybody with the ambition to become
a king would first try to gain control over the 'tooth relic'. Hence
at the slightest inkling of trouble, the monks used to disappear
with the relic and surface later at another location.
The last king of Sri Lanka ruled from Kandy. He also built the
latest and present temple of the tooth called Dalda Maliga, where
the tooth relic is housed even today. The temple is a magnificent
building with wood carving, painted ceiling and fine inlay work in
ivory. The 'Tooth relic' rests inside a Gold and Gem-studded casket.
The temple musicians in the tradition of 'Nadaswaram' players in our
temples, play ritualistic music before the door of the Tooth-shrine
is opened in the mornings and evenings. During the Annual Kandy
Festival a procession is taken out from the temple of tooth. All the
four Hindu temples in Kandy belonging to Ganesh, Muruga, Vishnu and
Siva are called Natha Devalaya. Kathargama Devalaya, Vishnu Devalaya
and Saman Devalaya participate in the procession with their utsav
Moorthies, Priests, Elephants and temple musicians. The Kandy
festival is the unique symbol of common socio-religious traditions
of Sri Lanka. The festival is called 'Kandy Perinara' and celebrated
on full moon day in the month of 'Vaishaka' near about August.
Kandy is situated on the banks of Mahaveli River (or Mahaveli
Ganga) the life-giving river of Sri Lanka. Enroute to Kandy, we can
stop at Cashew Stop where young beautiful girls in their lovely
colourful costumes of lungi and blouse sell homeshelled, and home
packed cashewnuts. All of them wear colourful pink vermillion sign (Bindi)
on their foreheads. They wanted my glass bangles, which I
distributed to them gladly. Next time, while going to Sri Lanka
please take with you plenty of Bindi (Pottu), Bangles, Lungis,
Indian Sarees, made both of cotton and silk. These make lovely
presents for Sri Lankans.
Before the British rule, Kandy was the capital of Sri Lanka. The
last King of Sri Lanka was deported to India by the British, kept in
prison at Vellore Fort and died there in exile, in India. The last
Royal family had close links with India. One of his ancestor kings
had taken a Princess of Kerala belonging to the Nayyar Community as
his Queen. The King died issueless, and as per the Nayyar tradition,
the succession passed on to the son of the Queen's brother, who was
also of Kerala descent. This interaction brought a lot of South
Indian traditions to Kandy. 'The Kandian Saree' is one of the many
outcomes of this relationship. The others being temple festivals,
temple musicians, drummers and Kandian dances.
Kandy has its own fantastic dance traditions. However some of
them are very close to, or partially influenced by Mohini Attam,
Kathakali, Theyyam and Mask dances of South India. Kandian
bridegrooms also wear a 'Royal costume complete with a sword and a
turban' like the Rajputs in India. On the way to Kandy we came
across a very ancient Buddhist temple, where we saw some of the most
beautiful ancient paintings on the walls. This place is also famous
for brass-artifacts, idols, icons, lamps, brass Buddha statues. The
Singham (Lion) symbol of Sri Lanka, and the Sun and Moon symbols
(which are supposed to be auspicious) are also available in brass to
be bought as souveniors. Beautiful Buddha statues are available in
Kandy, in the shops of Chinese Craftmen, in brass, teakwood and
rosewood. However the best ones are in ebony, and are sold at a
reasonable price.
While going to Kandy, you pass very close to the Tea Country.
Ceylon Tea is famous all over the world and value is added to tea,
by introducing various flavours. There is herbal tea, pure tea,
cardamom tea, chocolate tea, ginger tea, to name a few. Tea is also
packed in beautiful containers of wood, metal, weaving grasses,
palm-leaf, coconut-leaf, china and so on. Something we have to learn
from Sri Lanka, is 'How to gift pack the Tea'. The China Pottery
Industry is picking up very well. The Government-owned Norataki
Pottery Factory set up with Japanese collaboration has become very
popular among the tourists. You can buy directly, from the
Government-owned Norataki showrooms, dinner sets, tea sets, coffee
sets, beautiful porcelain gift items, toys and decorative china wall
plates. The collection of wall plates on 'Birds of Sri Lanka' is
beautifully painted and make excellent presents to be carried back
home. Also remember to buy 'Tea at Tea Board', spices at 'Spice
Board' and 'Gems' at Gem Corporation showrooms'. You can be assured
both of quality, and reasonableness of prices in these outlets. Some
items can be more expensive outside.
Another thing which should not be missed is buying some Batiks.
Sri Lankan Batiks are most exquisite. You can buy lovely shirts,
lungis, kaftans, scarves, nighties at 'Fort' area in Colombo. Batik
prints are also available at all handicraft shops. At the Fort, you
can also buy some lovely Sri Lankan 'Byla Music' both Singaleese and
Tamil. To my surprise, I found some in 'Hindi' also. The local group
called 'Gypsies' is quite popular right now, with young music loving
Sri Lankans.
(to be continued next week…)
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