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You could call it the 'Local Deepavali' for, all the people of Kancheepuram are up before sunrise, bathed and dressed in their finery to have a glimpse of Lord Varadarajaswamy on his favourite Garuda Vahanam.

Part of the temple's Brahmotsavam festival, this year's Garudasevai fell on June 1. This festival is considered more sacred than even the car festival (Ther) with which the Brahmotsavam concludes.

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We had darshan of the Lord near the Rangaswamy Kulam area which is quite a distance from Chinna Kanchi or Vishnu Kanchi, where the Varadarajaswamy temple is situated.

There were loud fire crackers to announce the arrival of the Vahanam which was carried by at least 50 people.

The Garuda Vahanam must be at least four feet and sits with one knee raised. His upraised hands delicately, hold the feet of the Lord.

The Lord Himself is adorned with jewels and masses of garlands.

Two huge white cotton umbrellas protect Him from the sun - though when he started out it was pitch dark.

A temple elephant led the procession and blessed people all along the way - for a fee, of course.

Some people made their children sit on the elephant for fun and also because they believe it would be a blessing for the children.

It was difficult to even see the silhouette of the Lord and the Garuda Vahanam as the hundreds of people gathered on both sides of the road lit camphor to perform arathi on their own. It was only when the vahanam halted for a few seconds at the corner of the Ashta Bhujam Koil Street that one could see the Lord and Garudan clearly.

People uniformly carried a plate with broken coconut, betel leaf, fruit and camphor. There was also the sweet butter - rice flour mixed in jaggery - that they then gave away as Prasadam to everyone around.

There were kinder souls who did annadhanam and some others who served buttermilk to the milling devotees.

It took more than an hour for the procession to cross a particular spot. This was because the vahanam was followed by several groups of bhajanai goshtis (group singing) from several nearby areas. They all carried a beautiful standing lamp, a harmonium and several cymbals. A couple of devotees in these groups were dressed like Hanuman and were the cynosure of all eyes.

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The vahanam made a tour of the tiny town and was on its way back to the temple by about 11.30 a.m. to 12 noon.

Some thoughtful people had generously watered the road so that the Bhaktars, chanting mantras, and the people carrying the thick logs on which the vahanam was mounted would find it easier to walk on the hot road. They were all bare-footed.

Though the crowds this year were much thinner - it could be because it came on a day sandwiched between two muhurthams; that the stocks of the balloon seller and the ones selling colourful paper windmills were sold out meant the devotees had turned up in good numbers.

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S. Chitra

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Published on 4th June, 2004

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