Don Pepe is one of Chennai's most popular Mexican food restaurants. In March this year it held a hugely successful American food festival. After that, it now serves American food too, including several  Americanised continental dishes, like Ceviche, a starter of marinated white fish, and sauteed Chicken breast with Taragon sauce. Mexican cuisine is an acceptable culinary meeting-ground for both European and Indian palates. Europeans and Americans like their food to taste natural, explains chef Vasu, a Mexican food specialist, they do not like to have as much spice in their food as we do. Mexican food has just the right amount of spice to excite the western taste and satisfy the eastern. Healthy and gently-spiced is how Vasu describes it.

Don Pepe opened in 1997 and quickly earned a reputation for the authentic taste of its fare. In 1998 it won the National Tourism award for excellence. It strives to maintain that reputation by importing genuine Mexican and American ingredients, like California chilli powder (made from red jalapeno peppers), rare herbs and Chef Paul Pruddhome¹s range of ready-made mixes for seasoning. The staff, attentive and efficient, make dining here a pleasant experience. The simple, pleasing decor contains bits of Mexicana; sombreros hanging on pegs on the far wall; patterned cloth on the walls; darkly handsome, comfortable chairs; and wood-tiled floor. The success of this formula finds a fairly cosmopolitan clientele filling the restaurant on most evenings.

The special dishes here are Rack of Lamb (baked California-style with persillade and mint sauce and served with corn and zucchini pancakes, for Rs. 160); Vertical Roasted Chicken with mushrooms and roasted potatoes (it is cooked in an upright position so that the fat in the meat melts and flows out, but leaves the juice inside. Priced at Rs. 150); Stir-Fried Chicken; Surf and Turf (Lobster tail and filet of lamb, for Rs. 400); Delight Del Mor (sauteed shrimps, chicken and avocado with cheese, rice and baked beans, for Rs. 250); Blanquette of Vegetables (Celery, zucchini, mushrooms and other vegetables in steamer or cream sauce, for Rs. 140); and an incredible Deep Fried Ice Cream (vanilla ice cream deep fried and served in a tortilla with chocolate sauce, for Rs. 55). The most spectacular dish here is the Vertical Baby Pineapple, that is flambeed at the table. All the meat served here has been marinated for four hours, so it is tender and juicy. The lamb dishes - Pave of Mouton and Leg of Lamb are the others - are especially tender for the Chef insists on tender lamb.

The Chefs are understandably elated at the appreciation their efforts have received, especially as that appreciation comes from all diners, regardless of race or creed. Yes, Mexican food is a universal favourite, sums up Chef Vasu, and then adds, a little regretfully, but we do make certain dishes spicier when diners request it. Don Pepe - for Chennaiites who enjoy their tortillas and fajitas. 

Don Pepe is at 73 Cathedral Road, Chennai 600 086. Telephone 8221461. It is open from noon till 3:00 pm, and from 7 pm till 11:30 pm.

Arun Masilamoni

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