 Named after the village that was made famous by author R. K. Narayan - Malgudi is Savera hotel's specialty restaurant for South Indian fare. The noted novelist was in fact so impressed when he visited the place that he blessed the chefs and the staff. The restaurant does actually resemble a little village square with its central, circular, high-ceiling pit and little dining nooks that enclose it on three sides. It offers the cuisine of the four southern states - Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu, each cooked by a chef from that region.
The room is sociable and loves a crowd; early in the afternoon or evening, when it is nearly empty, the absence of sound is noticeable. But an hour into the meal, with half or more of the tables occupied, the room comes alive with the soft sounds of eating and conversation.
Executive Chef Giridhiran believes that when people come to a restaurant they want to
enjoy good, tasty food that does not contain excessive spice. As such, Malgudišs food is spiced well within the limits of tolerance, while retaining the nuances of
flavour.
Vadams are served with five chutneys; mint, tomato, mango, coconut and onion. The Thodakkam, or starters, include Vasanai Elaneer (flavoured tender coconut water), Pazharasma (fresh juice) and palate-teasing soups of Thakali (tomato and lentils), Murungakai (drumstick and lentils), Aatukal (lamb) and Kozhi (chicken) and cost up to Rs. 55 each.
The contents of the thali meal vary daily; four vegetable dishes - or two vegetable and two meat - with sambar, rasam, curd and rice, with a choice of appam, paratha or dosa and dessert. The cost is Rs.200 for vegetarians and Rs.250 for non-vegetarians.
Meat-lovers will agonise over the menu to select a dish from the variety available. Of fish dishes alone there are: Erra Varuval (prawns sauteed with spices), Meen Moilee (fish simmered in a gravy of coconut milk, chillies and turmeric), Chappa Pulusu (sear fish in tamarind-based gravy) and Kane Pana Upkari (Lady fish with onion), to name merely one dish from each region! Mutton and chicken dishes include Attu Eraichi Varuval (dry pepper fried lamb), Veinchina Mamsam (lamb marinated and shallow fried with curry leaves), Allam Khodi (chicken cooked in thick ginger gravy) and Kori Gasi (chicken curry with coconut milk). All the meat dishes cost Rs.175, except Pitta Masala (Japanese quail) at Rs.200, and Chemeen Puli Charu (shrimps cooked in a gravy of onion, chillies, tamarind and coconut) at Rs.350. The Biriyanis are
superb; Kozhi Biriyani (chicken), Vaettah Mamsam (lamb) and Kaikari
Biriyani.
Vegetarians have an exotic range of dishes to enjoy, including Pakoda Kozhambu (chick pea dumpling in spicy gravy), Guthi Venkaya (brinjals cooked in masala), Kanda Gadde Kheema (grated yam cooked with coconut) and Bareda Kai Gasi (raw banana curry).
The desserts are Puran Poli, Ukira, Ada Pradhaman and Carrot Halwa, at Rs.75 each.
The Malgudi - winner of the Diner's Club Prize for best food in 1999 - is certainly a
restaurant to recommend to connoisseurs and lovers of South Indian food.
The Malgudi is at Savera Hotel, 146, Dr. Radhakrishna Road, Chennai 600 004. Phone 827-4700.
Arun Masilamoni
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