The Whistle Stop Cafe provides Chennaiites a courteous introduction to the laid-back mood and flavour of the Mediterranean. The proprietors, 'passionate foodies' Gautam Bulchandani and Esmath Khaleeli, both have spent several years in the Mediterranean region, learning and practising their craft in Florence and Rome, respectively. In decorating and designing this restaurant, the two have sought to re-create the bohemian cheeriness of Mediterranean restaurants, so, unique as the cuisine is in Chennai, it is not the sole end to dining here.

The first glance of appraisal round the medium-sized room is a pleasant and interesting experience; pleasant for the ambience, interesting for the appointments that offer glimpses of various Mediterranean locales. The eye is drawn back to linger on the Italian-style red-brick wall and counter, Spanish-style checked table-cloth, French-style high-backed chairs, and the big, friendly windows that give a view of the grass and trees beyond. The motif is simplicity, the colours earthy and reassuring, the effect restful.

The first-time diner here will probably be impressed at how natural is the taste of the vegetables and meat, right through the menu. A meal, ideally, consists of three courses; starter, main course and dessert. The complimentary starter is Pate di Alio; garlic paste served on French bread. A good vegetarian starter is Bruschetta; Italian bread topped with tomatoes and sauteed mushrooms, or, quesadillas (pan-fried maida cakes) with salsa (tomatoes and onions in vinegar). Fritto Misto is a thriller; prawns, whitebait ('nethelli' in Tamil) and calamari (squid), with tangy sauces.

For the main course, Risotto di Fungi (Italian rice cooked in mushroom cream sauce) is interesting. So too Pallo alla Diavola (devilled chicken). The very good courses are Poulet d¹Alsace (marinated chicken cooked in a brandy cream jus) and Steak Diane (steak braised in mushroom, cream and brandy jus). The diner might wish for an appropriate wine to go with the meal, but the Whistle Stop Cafe does not serve any. The lack of wine, however, does not seem to detract from the enjoyment of the food itself. All through, it is delicious in an understated, nonchalant way. The pasta, though, might not appeal to the palate of the Indian diner, who will wish strongly for something spicy to pour over it. But besides the sauces particular to each course, the only flavour enhancer is olive oil.

This diner surmises that perhaps while cooks from the subcontinent, surrounded by tropical abundance of spices and condiments, have always felt free to indulge their culinary fancy, European cooks, nurturing their skills through the frequent spice shortages of previous centuries, seem to have developed a technique that uses spices - in pinches, dashes and teaspoons-full - merely as catalysts to the natural flavour of the food. Thus, the palate is never overwhelmed, rather, its sensibilities are stirred. Dessert would satisfy every sweet-tooth owner, especially the Crepes (slim French pancakes) with a choice of toppings; caramel, honey, lemon and chocolate, or the Lemon Cream; lemon custard with burnt sugar crust. The bill of fare should not discourage even the casual diner. A full three-course will not cost more than four hundred rupees.

The cafe is, in many ways, making a positive, refreshing difference to the restaurant culture in Chennai. Take for instance, the service; the staff are attentive and eager in a friendly, unselfconscious way. The patrons, whether arriving by Mercedes Benz or a dilapidated Chetak, dressed in three-piece formals or starched white dhoti, receive a welcome that leaves them smiling long after they have seated themselves. While the Benz owner considers the menu, the dhoti-clad gentleman announces, 'one Fritto Misto and one Ravioli, kondu va! Apple pie, oven kulai poda!'

That a Chennaiite who has never travelled beyond Tambaram can reel off the names of Italian haute cuisine as casually as he would the words 'idli sambhar' and 'masala dosa' indicates how successful this restaurant has been in promoting the concept of culinary-theme-based restaurants. 'It is our present to Chennai' beams a modest Esmath. She and Gautam are committed to encouraging local artistic talent. They lend wall space in the restaurant to upcoming artists to display their work, and soon, musicians too will be invited to perform. Initially, the proprietors were not sure that Chennai would take to their idea, but today Esmath happily points out that six out of every ten clients are Chennaiites, compared to last year¹s three out of ten. 'It has worked!' she enthuses.

Esmath and Gautam share a dream; to open a new theme restaurant every year. Whistle Stop Cafe is their first ambition fulfilled, and also, perhaps, their spiritual home. The inside cover of the menu reads '...where the steam train stops for just a few moments and speeds off to the next destination.' This, then, is their beginning, and the line stretches before them. 'We plan to open our second venture in April', Esmath reveals, with obvious pleasure. This writer expects that all their ventures will display the same vibrant good taste, and will, as does this cafe, exude a charm as congenial and disarming as the sweet ambush of Esmath Khaleeli¹s smile.

Whistle Stop Cafe is at 38/39 North Boag Road, T. Nagar, Telephone 824-1644, and is open from noon till 3 p.m., and from 7 p.m. till midnight.

Arun Masilamoni

More restaurants