Laksa
 This is an exciting concoction -
noodles made from rice flour in a curry-like gravy made from spices, herbs, dried shrimp,
coconut milk and chilli. It is served with slices of
fishcake, prawns and cockles. This is one of those dishes that Singaporeans overseas dream about when they miss home. It features on many menus all over the world, for the same reason, and also because it is the kind of dish that chefs take pride in preparing well - a truly delicious example of skill with
spices and subtlety.
It may have come to Singapore in one version. But, true to form, the different races and dialect groups added and subtracted ingredients. What began as a spicy peanut-based gravy, evolved into today's version, a combination of Chinese, Malay and mostly
Peranakan influences.
The most popular version was sold in the Katong (East Coast) area more than 50 years ago by a man nicknamed Janggot. He learnt the recipe from the Straits Chinese who lived in the Katong area. He subsequently married a Straits Chinese woman, a daughter of one of his customers. In those days, street hawkers using pushcarts used to walk the streets, selling
Laksa in porcelain bowls.
There is ongoing debate about the "real" Singapore
Laksa. And which is the "real Katong Laksa" out of the hundreds of food sellers around Singapore who call their version "Katong Laksa"? There was indeed an original Katong
Laksa (Janggot's), which shot to fame because of its wonderful taste. Copies sprouted, and an enterprising individual took the initiative of registering the name 'Katong Laksa', mass-producing it and
selling it to vendors all over Singapore.
The debate goes on...
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Published
on 21st May, 2004 |
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