'Anjappar Restaurant' is a name known to many Chennaiites, especially lovers of Chettinad cuisine. When Anjappar, a native of the district now known as Karaikudi, started a mess in Royappettah in the 1960s, he introduced a special brand of cooking from Nattarasankottai. The taste of the new cuisine was well appreciated and satisfied diners soon spread its name throughout the city. Business boomed at the mess and Anjappar soon opened the restaurant that bears his name. For many years it was a landmark in Royapettah, until - when the old building that housed it was to be demolished to make way for a new construction - it was shifted to Nungambakkam. Long before then, Chettinad preparations had become permanent features on the menus of every other restaurant, and the cuisine had become the very flavour of the city.

Anjappar Restaurant¹s new branch in Anna Nagar, started in January 2000, is a worthy extension of the original. Simple, clean and eminently affordable to the middle-class, it already finds itself packed almost to overflowing at lunch and dinner time on any day of the week. Anna Nagar¹s residents have taken Anjappar to their hearts and if, when they turn up, a table is not available, and the queue of prospective diners waiting in the foyer and under the eaves outside is intimidatingly long, they ask for their orders to be  packed so that they may still enjoy the food in their own homes. What higher compliment could one possibly pay Anjappar, his chefs and his cuisine?

As one reads through the menu, the taste buds start to ache in anticipation, for besides the wholesome vegetable dishes, there are preparations of turkey, pigeon, rabbit, crab, and other meats, all of which cost only around Rs. 50. The really special preparations are Crab Soup, Turkey Biriyani and Mint Parotta. There are also Chinese dishes available. 'We make it a point to use natural ingredients only, as most of our customers are families,' says Rajagopal, manager in Anna Nagar. 'We avoid even artificial colours and flavours.' The charm of this restaurant lies in its informal but stylish decor - granite table-tops, wood panelling, attractive art hanging on the walls - and softly-lit, air-conditioned comfort. It could best be described as a spruced-up throw-back to the good old family restaurants of twenty or thirty years ago, when one found privacy and anonymity not in a separate booth, but at one of a score of tables, all crowded with diners feeding and chatting with equal relish. 

The food is served on banana leaves, in keeping with Chettinad tradition. The meat and vegetables are always tender and well cooked, and for dessert Fruit Salad with ice cream is still a favourite. To ensure seating at the restaurant, it would be advisable to make a reservation well in advance, especially on weekends and for large groups. 'Call us classy, tasty, or simply Anjappar,'says Rajagopal with infectious confidence, 'they all mean the same.'

Anjappar Chettinad A/C Restaurant is at A-55, Anna Nagar East, Chennai 600 102. Telephone: 628-4712, 628-9344.

Arun Masilamoni

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