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Ancient Greek Jewellery - masterpieces of yore 


In Classical times (475-330 BC) there was a distinct preference for filigree work rather than granulation, in combination with enamel which had reappeared, having been used earlier in Mycenaean gold work. Wonderful works, masterpieces of the gold-silvermithing of this period and the next, have come to light in graves at Eretria. Outstanding among the earrings are the spirals with pyramidal, human-head or animal-head finials; boat-shaped, richly decorated with filigree and granulation, that first appeared at this time and endured in various versions until the end of the period; the hoops, the discs and the splendid earrings with pendants in the form of a Nike driving a chariot, a Siren, Ganymede carried off by Zeus and so on, hanging from a palmette.

Though metalworking developed apace during the Archaic period (600-475 BC) there are but scant examples of the goldsmith's art in Greece at that time. This dearth of gold jewellery (mainly silver, bronze or iron pieces have survived) can perhaps be explained by the Persian Wars and the fact that the Persians controlled the Middle East, and consequently the amount of gold available. However, jewellery-making continued without a break throughout this period, the Greek jewellers turning their attention to markets abroad, producing Graeco-Scythian, Graeco-Thracian, Graeco-Etruscan and Graeco-Celtic ornaments. So when the Persian Wars were over Greek jewellery-making carried on uninterrupted, creating exquisite works with some notable changes in technique. In the seventh century BC new centres of gold working appeared in the Aegean islands, where the arts of sculpture and pottery-making were already, flourishing. Alongside Crete, Melos, Thera, and Rhodes can boast veritable masterpieces. 

The gold plaque with pre-dedalic figures was recovered from the Idaian. Cave attests the continuity of the Cretan workshop in the early seventh century BC. The pectoral plaques with representation of the mistress of beasts or dedalic protomes were fashioned in the Rhodian workshop. The famous rosettes from Melos, their petals embellished with flowers, griffins, insects, birds and bull heads executed in granulation and filigree technique, bespeak the existence of some major local workshop, while the "bees" from Thera, with the dedalic head so harmoniously attuned to the insect's body, also merit attention. 

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