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In India, like other human cultures of the world, jewellery was the earliest art form fashioned by man. Jewellery communicated messages of love, hate, power, hierarchy, marriage, widowhood etc. Gold and jewels came to be associated with the four aspects of life that concerned mankind - power, health, wealth and religion.
India was a principal production centre for beads by 3000 B.C. The origin of the simple black bead goes back to the 7th millennium B.C. To this day the lowly bead is yet the most auspicious ornament a mother gives her daughter. Lapis lazuli, turquoise, coral, carnelian, jasper and a variety of semi precious hard stones were imported from Indus valley cities of Harappa, Mohenjo-daro, Lothal where they were cut shaped and bored and re-exported to destinations beyond India.
The Gupta period (circa A.D.320-600) is marked to have wealth and quality of court life than any other period in Indian history. Jewellery forms on sculptures have been seen to become more stereotypical and stylised, from the post-Gupta Era.
The Cholas acquired their wealth through military conquests and held a monopoly over the gold mines and the pearl fisheries and gems of Ceylon. There was very little infliction of the Mughal culture despite their continuous invasion into the south. Kautilya (4th century B.C) declared that the trade route across Dakshinapathaka was the "superior route" for it was rich in mines and had abundant 'diamond, rubies, pearls and gold.' Jewellery in southern India did not evolve in response to changing India, more than any other part of country
Jewels are linked with the past for the simple reason that these small objects of beauty concentrate on the culture of love and wealth. The power and pride of kingdoms was enshrined in jewels. Published on 24th June 2002
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