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Meenakari - Art of enamelling |
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Meenakari, the art of enamelling, has been an indigenous craft of India. An ornament is crafted in gold and then handed over to the artist for the desired design which is then outlined by the engraver. Finally the ornament goes to the enameller, who applies different colours with brushes on the engraved design. The surface of the pits in the gold are ornamented with etching, which serve not only to make the enamel adhere firmly, but to increase its beauty by play of light and shade through transparent colours. Before applying the enamel, the surface is thoroughly cleaned, the paint, which may have over-flowed, is carefully wiped
with a piece of cotton and the ornament is left in the fire for half an hour for the enamel to set.
It is then rubbed with corundumbone or 'Sohan' and again put in fire. The acid of tamarind or lemon is then applied to the article. While in the furnace the article to be enamelled is placed on a plate of mica to keep it from direct contact with fire. It is very carefully shielded while cleaning or dying to prevent any dust attaching to it. Colours are applied in the order of their hardiness or power of resisting fire, beginning with the hardest. In the order of resistance the colour are white, blue, green, black and red. Pure ruby is the most difficult to handle and it is only the most experienced workers who can bring out its beauty. All colours known can be enamelled on to gold. Black, green, blue, dark yellow, orange and pink can adhere to copper.
Enamellers from Lahore were brought to Jaipur (Rajasthan) in the 16th century onwards. In India, craftsmen From Punjab, Jaipur, Lucknow and Varanasi possessed knowledge about this intricate craft and the Varanasi and Jaipur enamel reached a high stage of perfection and remained unmatched in any part of the country. The ornament of Kundan work are combined with enamelling, so that the particular prices of jewellery has two equally beautiful surface - the precious stones set on the front side and enamelling at the back. One reason why the enamel of this period has endured is, because it never came in contact with the skin. Necklaces were attached to strips of velvet, which not only proved comfortable but also prevented friction with the skin and also preserved the enamel.
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