The Poonamallee is one of the old restaurants of Chennai that
was noted for its charm and warm hospitality. It is one of the very few to have retained most of the original old-world decor; at the very first glance the visitor is impressed by the abundance of beautiful, dark wood on view throughout the restaurant, especially in the canopied dining cubicles in the middle of the room. This has given the restaurant the unique gracious ambience that Chennaiites, over the years, have found hard to resist, and that
a first-time visitor instantly recognises as the restaurant¹s chief attraction. Sadly, though, the grace and grandeur are fading, and none too elegantly, for one finds chipped glass chimneys on the candle-sticks and the occasional greasy spoon. But the most noticeable decline is in the behaviour of the serving staff, who, though attentive and well-meaning, make themselves too conspicuous with their loud chatter and their habit of striding through the room so boisterously that guests have to step aside to make way for them.
The restaurant serves Continental, Indian and Chinese food and the menu lists almost all the popular dishes of these cuisines - with the prices written in words, rather than in figures. The best dishes to order here are the panneer and chicken. On the whole, the fare from the kitchen is well-cooked and well-spiced, but a little heavy - again, a throwback to a trend of an earlier age. This diner found it satisfactory but unremarkable, but would recommend this restaurant for fare that, unfashionable though it might be considered today, will not leave one disappointed. Where Poonamallee¹s chefs excel is at the spot-cooking trolley for appams (hoppers) and idiappams (string hoppers), which bring to Poonamallee most of Chennai¹s Sri Lankan residents. Light, soft and crisp, the appams are quite outstanding, and this diner was especially enamoured by the chef¹s special preparation of appam with egg. Most diners
are likely to remember this preparation for a while and come back to enjoy again. The appams are served with traditional Sri Lankan side dishes called Œsombol¹, of tamarind and onion, chilly and onion, coconut and chilly, coconut milk and, Œkirihodhi¹ (masala coconut milk).
Poonamallee is also known for its buffet, that comprises dishes from all three cuisines with, occasionally, a Sri Lankan preparation too. The buffet is available daily for lunch and on weekends for dinner for Rs.250 per head. A la carte orders are accepted only for dinner from Monday to Friday.
Poonamallee Restaurant is at Breeze Hotel, 850 Poonamallee High Road, Chennai 600 010.
Phone: 641-3334 / 35 / 36 / 37, 642-8202. It is open from noon till 3
p.m. and from 7.30 p.m. till 11 p.m.
Arun Masilamoni
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