Catamaraan is special for its warmth, gentility and outstanding fare. Its interior is invigoratingly modern, with fish-motif paintings by Upasana decorating the walls, as well as a hint of the old world in the mat window blinds. It is part of Chennai¹s Restaurant Bazaar, one of the havens of calm at the boisterously busy junction of TTK Road and Cathedral Road. The bonhomie of this establishment grows on its patrons; first-time guests might at first converse softly, and place their orders almost hesitantly, but half-way through the meal they will be chatting in unselfconscious delight with the Chef, Krish Bardhan.

Bardhan is the soul of this restaurant, its very ambience draws from his colourful personality. Witty and good-natured, he was one of the best-liked Chefs of the Taj Group, until - when the spirit of adventure grew too strong to contain - he left to become a part of the team that conceived of and built Catamaraan. 'Here I am as happy as a fish in a pond!' he bubbles. Obviously, his customers feel the same way too, for Catamaraan's first anniversary celebrations in February this year were well-attended by the city's culinary connoisseurs. The menu lists an extensive variety; lobster, crab, prawns, squid, anchovy, several kinds of fish cooked in Continental, various Indian, Tandoori and even American (Prawn California - prawns tossed with shallots and raisins, cooked in herb sauce) styles. Prices vary from Rs.400 for the Special dishes to Rs.60 for Squid Koliwada, an appetizer. If the food here can be considered as good as seafood served at the Taj - as some regular patrons assert - then Catamaraan is less expensive.

On weekends, diners can choose their crabs from the live display. The crabs - and, in fact, almost all the important ingredients here - are selected and purchased personally by Bardhan at Royapuram¹s auction market. This attention to quality brings many of Chennai¹s celebrities here; film stars Shivaji Ganesan and Chiranjeevi regularly drop in for their respective favourites, Lobster Masaladar and Dengida Sukka (a Mangalorean dry preparation of crab). Diners can also state their flavouring preferences for particular dishes. Some of Catamaraan¹s Japanese customers ask for their octopus to be blanched (soaked in boiling water) before they flavour it themselves - with simple salt and pepper. 'Everyone should feel at home here,' says Bardhan. This has led the restaurant - after careful consideration - to include a few other meat and vegetarian dishes in its menu, for 'sometimes, when a family or group comes here, not all the members are keen on seafood, so we have these other dishes to cater to their preferences.' The dishes for vegetarians include Bhendi crisp-fried, Panneer Malai Kabab, Spinach cooked and tempered in butter, and a simple, delicious Dal.

If one has trouble in making a choice, look to the Chef for advice, for behind Bardhan¹s disarming smile lurks a finely-honed talent. 'I can tell which dishes diners will like within a few minutes of getting to know them,' he reveals. Indeed, delicious though its fare may be, diners will probably discover that Catamaraan¹s less-obvious assets are far more intriguing!

Catamaraan is at 282/2 TTK Road, Alwarpet, Chennai 600 018. Telephone - 4661628. 
It is open from 12.30 p.m. till 3 p.m., and from 7 p.m. till 11 p.m.

Arun Masilamoni

More restaurants