Chennai's latest and most spectacular dhaba opened on Cenotaph Road in November 1999. Spectacular in appearance: a three-storey mansion set in a large compound, with bright Pepsi displays lining the garden wall; and spectacular for its reasonable prices: a tandoori roti costs Rs. 5, a Thandi Lassi Rs. 10, and soon a dal-roti counter will be set up to serve lunch for not more than Rs. 20. The Proprietor is Sachin, an ex-Oberoi chef from a village in Punjab and owner of the popular Sachin ka Dhabba in West Annanagar. 'I want to serve economical, nutritious, freshly-cooked Punjabi khana,' he says in his direct, no-nonsense manner.

Dhaba Express has three appropiately-named restaurants; Second Class Non A/C, First Class Non A/C, and First Class A/C. The Second Class Non A/C is laid out in two sections; one in a red-brick walled courtyard shaded by 40-foot ashoka trees with a waterfall in the far corner, and the other occupying a large tile-roofed shed. The food here is regular Punjabi home khana, 'with less oil and butter', according to Sachin, 'so that you can eat it every day and not hurt your stomach or your pocket'. This claim is borne out by the regular patronage of office executives and the low prices on the menu. For instance, chicken dishes cost from Rs.45 to Rs.70. Breakfast is served here between 8:30 and 10:30 a.m. and offers aloo parotha, gobi parotha (Rs.10 each) and Punjabi lassi (Rs.15).

The First Class Non A/C is another partly-covered semi-circular area in the forecourt, where more elaborate - and slightly more expensive - dishes are served. As in the Second Class, the seating consists of 'khattiyas', and a surprisingly comfortable stone bench, and 'Tarzan' tables. The food here is served in thalis and tumblers of  brass and steel. There is a separate counter for ice-cream faluda. The First Class A/C restaurant occupies three small halls in the mansion. The colours here are natural reds, browns and yellows of the Punjab countryside. The tables are low, with Rajasthani-style bamboo bench-seats.

This restaurant is actually, not 'asli' dhaba in appearance, but the food is outstanding; Punjabi Chicken, Kadai Panneer, Sarson ka Saag. Sachin says the distinctive flavour of his dishes is due partly to his garam masala. 'I don¹t buy garam masala, but make my own every morning.' Sachin has an obsession with fresh-cooked food, which is, in fact, the traditional way dhaba khana is served. Suresh Kandan, Director, explains, 'Dhabas in Punjab use ingredients that are grown in the adjacent fields. Every morning, the cook or farmer picks whichever vegetables and herbs are ready and prepares his dishes accordingly.'

Are the food and ambience authentic? 'South Indians are greatly appreciative of North Indian food,' says Sachin, 'so what we serve is as true to the original as possible.' The ambience can probably be described as rugged, but not rustic; it is as authentic as it is comfortable, with the emphasis on comfort.

Dhaba Express is located at 9, Cenotaph Road, Teynampet, Chennai - 600018. Telephone: 432-8211/2/3.

Arun Masilamoni

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