East and West, according to the poem, are never destined to meet. But North and South India do meet in a little building in Adyar that houses Pathankot on the first floor and Usilampatti on the ground floor. Like its Southern counterpart, Pathankot takes its name from a town, one famous for its rugs, although the rugs on the ceiling of the restaurant are from Chennai! The small room, complete with stone-flagged floor, is neatly, if plainly, decorated, with only a few Punjabi motifs on the walls. There are tables to seat 2, 4 and 6 diners fairly comfortably. Each table is enclosed in a frame-partition that provides a semblance of privacy, and little lamps on the frames give the room a warm glow.

The courteous and affable host, P. K. Sahani of Amritsar, is quick to greet his guests, and proud to inform them that they are about to experience the true flavours of Punjab, for the restaurant uses only those ingredients that are found in Punjab and prepares them in the traditional manner. The chilli powder and masalas are hand-ground in an imam dasthar to ensure an authentic flavour; and the highly popular Sarson ka Saag - the saag for which is brought down from Delhi - is prepared only during the saag season, from October to February. The only concession made to local taste is the coconut-flavoured prawn dish, Jinga Narialwala.

Before the meal the restaurant serves a complimentary glass of Jal Jeera, but the diner could choose a Shorba of Tomato, Tarkari, Murg or Yakni too. This writer would recommend the Masala Lassi, which is outstanding. The Punjabi staples of panneer and dhal are available in several preparations; dhal Makhani, Tadka, Panjrangi (five types of dhal) and Ajnabi (yellow and black dhals) and; dry and wet panneer dishes including Bharta (with minced panneer), Kofta, Palak, Rumali and Burjee. The other good vegetable dishes are Sabzi Amritsari and Aachari, Buna Palak, Kadhi Punjab, and the spicy Chatpatti Gobi. Of the several dishes of chicken, mutton and fish, new to Chennai is Murg Chandi, a blend of three gravies with chicken, with the gravies mixed so gently that each spoonful tastes different! There is also Murg Bartha (minced chicken!), mutton Gosht Kofta curry and Machi Bhar (boneless tandoor-cooked fish). 

Another unique dish is Mutter Vadi Wale Chawal, a rice dish with pea-sized crisps of Vadi, made from moong dhal and black pepper. For dessert there are four Omithai, Phirni (with custard), Kulfi, Gur Bugga (with thil) and Rabri, a thick, sweet khoya, which this writer would recommend.

Vegetable dishes cost Rs.60 each; dhals Rs.45; meat Rs.80-90 with some special dishes of prawns and Tandoori Chicken priced higher; rice, pulao and biriyani Rs.50-70; desserts Rs.40-50. Kababs of meat, panneer and vegetable too are available for Rs.70-110. The taste and quality of the food is superb, but one wishes that the cook would use a little less oil. But let not that discourage lovers of good Punjabi khana.

Pathankot is at 141 Lattice Bridge Road, opposite IMPCOPS Hospital, above Usilampatti Restaurant, Adyar, 600 020. Phone: 440-3080.

It is open from noon till 3.30 pm and from 7 till 11.30 pm.

Arun Masilamoni

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