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Three-month long festival by Nature - Courtallam! (Part I)

On the Road

The month of June means different things to different people. While students feel sad that their vacation is coming to a close, there are others, particularly in this town, who look forward to June, not just for the monsoon rains, but for an improvement in their fortunes. The people of Courtallam, that is the town we are talking about, dance with joy at the fall of the season's first few drops of rain! The rain that falls on the ground dances through the mountains, meandering through the curves and reaches the ground as a huge big 'falls'. The people wait for nine months in a year for the months of June, July and August. The people of Courtallam depend on the rain and the waterfalls for their livelihood. The locals need the money they get from the tourist influx, in addition to their regular income from agriculture. If you can think of a fantastic tourist spot, which at the same time is neglected to the core, then it has to be Courtallam. The 'green' Courtallam and its people do not get the attention they deserve, from the government. So the place is withering away, lament the locals.

The silver lining is the 'season'. Once the season arrives, they forget all their woes and get ready to welcome the season and enjoy it. The setting of the season is heralded by the cool drizzle in the surroundings. (we had the pleasant experience of this cool drizzle). The Podhigai Malai that has got more than its share of encomiums, in Tamil literature, is nothing but Courtallam. Sage Agasthiyar is supposed to have used this as his dwelling and nurtured Tamil according to scriptures. 'Curtrala Kuravanji' of the poet Thirukooda Rasappa Kavirayar is very famous. There is no dearth of greenery in this mountain range, since it is on the Kerala border. Unknown (unidentifiable) flowers, trees and plants dot the range. It is indeed sad that most people do not know the (great) qualities of the water falling down these mountains.

Mr. Mookaiyyan, a Siddha doctor says a one week stay in Courtallam will completely cure a diabetic. He says the herb (sarkarai kolli) that controls and cures diabetes is available only in Courtallam. The place is also filled with a number of medicinal flowers and barks. However, people don't use these properly," Mookaiyyan says with a tinge of sadness. The 'Ayya' temple right at the top of the old waterfalls is supposed to be the guardian angel of these mountains. It is a Shiva temple and Shiva is fondly referred to as Ayya! Any new temple construction starts with a handful of sand/mud picked up from the Ayya temple. The Courtallanathar temple near the main falls was built the same way. Courtallanathar sits in the temple with his consort Kuzhalvaaimozhi.

The main falls and the famous 'Aiyndharuvi' don't go dry even when the monsoon fails, but the other waterfalls are no falls without the rains! Tourists are not allowed to bathe in the water falling beyond the bend, since the speed with which the water falls is tremendous! Tourists are also not allowed to go near the crater-like portion near the main falls (known as 'pongumaakadal), since this has been witness to a number of fatal accidents, in the past. Since it branches into five different falls, it is known as aiyndharuvi (5 falls). There is a separate enclosure for ladies - for bathing, dressing, etc. To keep the voyeurs at bay, there a number of cops guarding the enclosure. (of course, nothing can be done to stop the voyeurs among the cops and voyeurs there are!) The mini falls or chitraruvi is ideal and safe too, for kids to freak out. A short walk from the main falls and one reaches the Senbaga Devi falls. Above this are the Thenaruvi (honey) and Paal (milk) aruvi. Higher? No one seems to know. No one has been able to 'see' or identify the origin of the falls and it is impossible to proceed beyond a point, say the locals.

(continued)

Saravanan
Tr.Ellar

Published on 21st June, 2002
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