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Deep, mysterious lagoons.
Picturesque lakes. Palm-fringed canals. Shimmering rivulets.  Welcome to the famous
backwaters of Kerala - God’s own country, as the travel brochures
proudly proclaim. With the Western Ghats beckoning on the east, the sky blue Arabian Sea
on the west, emerald green paddy fields, luscious forests, beaches galore and of course,
the backwaters, Kerala is a tourist’s paradise.
To savour the exotic beauty of this pristine land, I (along
with family members in tow) set forth on a great voyage of discovery into panoramic
Kerala.
An overnight train journey from Chennai takes you to
Ernakulam, the starting point of your sojourn into the backwaters. To set the record
straight, both Ernakulam and Kochi (does the name sound a wee bit more familiar?) are twin
cities.  Our halt was at Bolgatty Palace, a
Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC) tourist resort, located on a small island in
the midst of the serene waters. From the railway station, we proceeded to the high court
boat jetty after making a quick call to the hotel (they send the hotel boats to ferry the
guests to the island). The best part about the boats is they have hoods, so you are
protected from the direct rays of the sun. Chairs are lined up on the upper deck to seat
the more hardy lot who prefer to brave the sun in the afternoons (popular mostly with
foreigners), though in the evenings and mornings it’s sheer bliss sitting on the
upper deck.
Since the morning sightseeing trip had
already left, we decided to spend the forenoon, browsing through the city. Some temple
festival seemed to be in full swing that day (an annual festival, we were informed by a
passerby) with a crowd of revellers (both men and women) thronging the streets, cheering
the crowd of dancers who swayed to the lilting beat of the drums and the melodious
rendering of the naadaswaram. A finery-clad elephant was being lead ceremoniously with
chains around its feet.
Jostling through the crowd, we made our way
to the main market on Mahatma Gandhi Road, much the same as in any other big city.
Incidentally, Broadway (not in England, of course) is another important shopping centre
here. Some window-shopping, a hurried lunch and we’re at the boat jetty at 2 p.m.
sharp. The KTDC boat was waiting there to take visitors for the second sightseeing trip
around the islands.
As we pass Willingdon Island, we see the huge ships docked at the
harbour. Massive cranes tower above them in the process of loading and unloading the cargo
from these seafarers. A delightful sight at close quarters! All the port offices are on
this beautiful island, accessible either by boat or by road (a bridge connects Willingdon
Island to the city). But entry to this area is restricted for security reasons.
We stop at the 2,000-year old Jewish town in Mattancherry where the
synagogue and the Dutch Palace are located. All the houses here are built in the old
Jewish tradition. It’s Saturday, so unfortunately the synagogue is closed. The guide
informs us that built in 1568, the synagogue (the oldest in the Commonwealth) is adorned
with exquisite Chinese hand-painted tiles with no two being identical. The great scrolls
of the Old Testament are also preserved here.
We proceed to the Dutch Palace instead. Though built by the
Portuguese, this Palace was presented to the Cochin raja in 1555 A.D. It acquired its
present name after the Dutch carried out some extensions and repairs. Its glory lies in
the murals that are in the best traditions of Hindu temple art – religious,
decorative and stylish. But we can’t take any photographs here as photography is
strictly prohibited. Anyway you can enjoy viewing the antique exhibits, like the portraits
of the then ruling clan, the royal dress, arms, umbrellas, palanquins for the royal
ladies, stamps, coins and cloth canopies. Incidentally, the palace is closed on
Fridays.
 Giant
Chinese fishing nets billowing in the wind from massive teak and bamboo poles herald our
arrival at Fort Kochi. Dotting the entrance to the harbour, they look magnificent
silhouetted against the setting sun. It is believed that the traders at the court of
Kublai Khan introduced these nets.
The historic St. Francis Church is also located here. Built out of wood in the 16th
century, it is the oldest European church in India. Interestingly,
one of the world’s greatest explorers, Vasco-da-Gama was buried
here before his remains were relocated to Portugal later. Our next sightseeing spot is Bolgatty
Island where, incidentally, we are also staying. The Bolgatty Palace
is in the midst of 6 hectares of lush green lawns at the southern
tip of the island. It was built by the Dutch in the 18th
century. Later it became the seat of the British Resident.
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Now
the palace has been converted into a hotel by the KTDC, but since it is under renovation,
six new A/C cottages are being rented to tourists staying on the island. A mini
horse-riding course is also on the island. I had been told that a small golf course used
to be here, but I was unable to find its remains anywhere.
A half-hour halt on the island and the boat was ready to
take off on the last lap of its journey -- to the jetty, its starting point. It was 5 in
the evening. We stayed back as the boat chugged off and spent a pleasant evening, enjoying
snacks and drinks beside the waterfront (Bolgatty has an open-air restaurant next to the
waterside) watching the steamers and boats go past. Throughout the day you can see people
from different islands travelling to and from the city along with their vehicles –
cars, trucks, three-wheelers and bikes. What a sight watching them being ferried across!
Later
we sailed across to Willingdon Island for dinner. The Waterfront Café of Taj Malabar,
true to its name, is right on the waterfront amidst lighted gardens. We enjoyed a hearty
buffet watching the illuminated ships taking off or returning from their destinations with
their loud sirens. At 10 in the night, the closing time for the jetty, we returned to
Bolgatty, tired but happy.
REACHING KOCHI
The oldest European settlement in India, Kochi
(Cochin) is an important entry point to Kerala. Flights operate daily from Mumbai,
Bangalore, Chennai, Delhi and Goa. You can also board a train to Kochi from almost any
major city. By road, Kochi is 4 1/2 hours from Thiruvananthapuram and 5 hours from
Kozhikode (Calicut). TOURS & TRAVELS
Kochi sightseeing tour (by boat)
Daily two tours (from Sealord jetty)
1st tour: 9 a.m. to 12.30 p.m.
2nd tour: 2 p.m. to 5.30 p.m.
Places visited
Dutch Palace, Synagogue, Chinese fishing nets, St.Francis Church, Bolgatty Island.
Fare: Rs.70 per person
Dutch Palace, Synagogue, Chinese fishing nets, St.Francis Church, Bolgatty Island.
Fare: Rs.70 per person
Kochi sunset tour (by boat from Sealord jetty)
Daily 5.30 p.m to 7 p.m.
Fare: Rs.40 per person
15 people a must for the tour, or it may be cancelled.
Daily 5.30 p.m to 7 p.m.
Fare: Rs.40 per person
15 people a must for the tour, or it may be cancelled.
City tours (from KTDC office, Ernakulam)
Hill Palace Museum - on a hillock at Thripunithura (12 kms from Kochi). Paintings,
epigraphy, royal carts, royal furniture and the like are displayed here.
Hill Palace Museum - on a hillock at Thripunithura (12 kms from Kochi). Paintings,
epigraphy, royal carts, royal furniture and the like are displayed here.
Timings: 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.
Kerala History Museum & Gallery of Paintings & Sculpture
Timing: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Kodanad,, elephant training centre
Fare: Rs.100
Village-backwater-canal tour on country boat (from KTDC
office)
Daily two tours
8.30 a.m. and 2.30 p.m.
Daily two tours
8.30 a.m. and 2.30 p.m.
Places visited
Coir village, Chinese fishing nets, toddy-tapping, prawn farming, crab rearing,
village market and village flora and fauna.
Fare: Rs.315 per person.
Coir village, Chinese fishing nets, toddy-tapping, prawn farming, crab rearing,
village market and village flora and fauna.
Fare: Rs.315 per person.
Coach tours (15 people a must for the tour)
Kochi – Thekkady tour (Periyar wildlife sanctuary)
2 days fare: Rs.315
Leaves at 7.30 a.m. on every Saturday and returns at 8 p.m. on Sunday.
Kochi – Athirapally/Vazhachal tour
1day fare: Rs.150
Leaves at 8 a.m. on every Sunday and
returns at 7 p.m.
Places visited
Kalady (birthplace of Sankaracharya), Athirapally and Vazhachal waterfalls.
Kalady (birthplace of Sankaracharya), Athirapally and Vazhachal waterfalls.
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