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Egmore - Museums and Malls

Singaara Chennai


The Egmore Museum

The main artery of Egmore, Pantheon Road, has quite a few sites of historical significance. The road’s name derives from the British Raj’s Pantheon that once stood there in the 18th century, one that played host to different kinds of entertainment shows for the British in the then Madras.

Today, art galleries and museums occupy the space where the Pantheon once stood. The thickly wooded enclave contains the Government Museum, National Art Gallery, Contemporary Art Gallery, the famous Connemara Library, and the more recent addition, the Children's Museum.

Founded in 1851, the Government Museum’s art, archeology and bronze galleries are its best sections. Most of the bronze sculptures there date back to the late Pallava and Chola periods, i.e., between the 9th and 12th centuries. The archeology section too has interesting sculptures from the Chola, Vijaynagar, Chalukya and Hoysala periods in addition to exhibits of the Indus Valley civilisation. The museum has anthropology, zoology, geology and botany sections as well.

Also in the Pantheon complex is the majestic pink sandstone building, the National Art Gallery, built in the stunning Jaipuri-Jaina style. Art lovers especially enjoy the gallery’s exhibits that highlight the glorious tradition of Indian painting including the Rajput and Moghul schools.

The red, circular, Museum Theatre - flanked by Tippu Sultan's cannons from Sringapatnam – and the Henry Irwin-designed Connemara Library, built in 1896, round out the complex. The library, which was recently renovated, contains a treasure trove of books, though many rare editions are in a bad state due to neglect and decay.

The Pantheon Road stretches from the north east to the south west, and just a stone’s throw from the former end is the Egmore Railway Station, with its main building done up in the striking Indo Saracenic style made famous by Robert Chisholm.

At the other end is the area’s other main thoroughfare, College Road, so named because the erstwhile College of St. George used to on that road. It was to this college that officials of the East India Company came to take lessons in language and governance. And with the then madras being the capital of the huge madras presidency, this college was the fountainhead of a number of Raj’s most faithful servants.

Today, the enormous campus that hosted this college has been taken over by a government institution under the Department of Education, viz., the Directorate of Public Instruction (DPI). Also in the DPI campus is the Madras Literary Society, situated in a beautiful building done up in the Indo- Saracenic architectural style. 

Next door to the DPI is the Women’s Christian College, or WCC as it is locally known, and further down the Good Shepherd’s Convent, both very famous educational institutions for girls. Quite a few Chennaivasis wrongly believe that WCC’s presence is the reason for the road’s name.

The Ethiraj Salai, formerly Commander-in-Chief Road, branches off easterly from Pantheon Road southern extreme. This road hosts the popular Wellington Club, a couple of mid-range hotels and the Ethiraj College for Women. The last few hundred metres of this road undergoes a change in name and becomes the Binny Road, in honour of the Binnys, which name also represents one of South India’s oldest business houses. The house of one of this family’s members, John Binny, today is the site of the deluxe hotel Taj Connemara and the shopping complex Spencers, yet another long-standing commercial establishment of South India.

Another of Egmore’s arteries is the Marshalls Road, which is perpendicular to the Ethiraj Salai and starts just where the latter becomes Binny Road. It is in this Marshalls Road that the Madras Eye Hospital stands and in yet another example of Indo-Saracenic architecture. The Rajarathinam Stadium, home to many an athletic contest among the city’s schools, colleges and other teams, and the Air India complex are two of the other must-see sites in this road.

Today

There has been a dramatic change in the very essence of Egmore. From being the area where the white and brown sahibs built their houses, Egmore today is a bustling centre of commerce. Shopping malls and hotels are continuously springing up, and the various malls especially draw in the city’s youth in flocks and hordes.

The presence of three sports complexes, the University Union, Corporation Stadium and Rajarathinam, and three hospitals – the Children’s, Maternity and Eye – has also resulted in hundreds of outstation visitors thronging this area daily. This in turn has brought in travel operators, especially the bus operators, and the presence of the city’s second most important railway station only underlines this fact. Quite naturally there are quite a few boarding houses, or lodges in local parlance, where one can stay without creating too much of a dent on the ever-important wallet.

Anupama Shekar, ark Commercials

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