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Originally called Thiru-alli-keni, Triplicane was once a suburb of Mylapore and was
wedged between the temple township and the Chepauk Palace. Dominated
by a temple, as are most communities in Tamil Nadu, Triplicane was
for many years a Brahminical stronghold and provided much of the
clerical work-force required by the East India Company.
Chennai’s oldest surviving
temple
While dedicated to Vishnu in his
incarnation as Krishna, the Parthasarathy Temple at Triplicane
enshrines images of the five incarnations of Vishnu including that
of a wounded Krishna. Parthasarathy literally means the 'charioteer
of Arjuna'. Partha is another name for Arjuna and Sarathy means
charioteer. Lord Krishna served as the charioteer of the Pandava
Arjuna in the Great War of Mahabharatha. The Parthasarathy temple is
perhaps the oldest surviving temple in Chennai. Scholars suggest
that the Pallavas built it as early as the 8th century.
However, additions and renovations were constantly made over the
next four centuries. The Pandyas and Cholas contributed some
changes. Traces of the architectural signs of the Vijayanagar kings,
who ruled as late as the 16th century, are also evident
in the temple structure.
As with Mylapore, or rather more so,
the temple and its environs retain the traditional flavour. The four
streets around the temple still have old-world houses and in spite
of the invasion of modern gadgets like TVs, cars and dish antennas,
something of the old Triplicane remains intact. Much of the
lifestyle here still resembles that which prevailed in the region
200-300 years ago.
Though the Parthasarathy temple
dominates life at Triplicane, the area has a healthy mix of
Christian, Muslim and Hindu
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communities. North of the temple is Amir
Mahal, the home to the Nawab of Arcot, who lives there to this day. The royal family of Arcot was among the most important in south
India in the 18th century. And while the arrival of the
British considerably undermined their power and position in the
south, the Arcot family still wields a lot of clout. Near Amir Mahal
is the splendid Wallajah mosque built by the present Nawab’s
ancestors. Also known as Badi Masjid (Big Mosque), the mosque is
very important to the city’s Muslims.
Along the Marina promenade, today
hidden by modern buildings, is the Chepauk Palace, one of the first
examples of Indo Saracenic architecture in the city. Built around
1768, it is popularly believed to be the handiwork of Paul Bentfield,
a close friend of the Nawab. It is interesting to note that the
palace is in the Indo Saracenic style because the dominant
architectural style of 18th century Raj was, in fact, the
Classical. The palace, on Wallajah Road, originally consisted of
Khalsa Mahal and Humayun Mahal, linked by Chisholm's Tower. The East
India Company annexed the palace in 1855 to house the Government
Survey School.
Triplicane continues to be an
important hub of the city, though the commercial din often drowns
out the more pleasant aspects of life here. Practically each road is
filled with shops and trading establishments and an exploration of
this unique borough will throw up fascinating stories for the
adventurous traveller. With a preponderance of lodges and boarding
houses, most of the single men who work in the city can be found
here, which in turn has led to a number of eateries coming up in
this area. From roadside dhabbas, or kai-endhi bhavans as they are
known locally, to family-run ‘mess’es Triplicane presents a
unique façade. With narrow side lanes and ancient houses waiting to
be ‘discovered’ Triplicane remains a must in the travel schedule
of anybody wanting to ‘know’ Chennai.
Anupama
Shekar, ark Commercials
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