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 It is indeed a task requiring great spiritual
knowledge to appreciate the concept of Shiva and the complexity of his role in the Hindu
trinity in the customary lingam form. To his devotees, he is both the creator and the
destructor, holding this paradox within himself. It is always easier to relate to an
anthropomorphic entity where divinity is defined in human contours. The finest
illustration of this is the Nataraja of Thillai or Chidambaram where one can behold the
supreme lord performing the cosmic dance; the significance of which is matched only by the
simplicity of its surpassing beauty. Oldtimers say that when a Saivite says he is going to
the temple, he means he is going to the Chidambaram Nataraja temple, just as a
Vaishnavaite uses this phrase for the Sriranagam Ranganatha temple. Welcome to
Chidambaram. An ancient town and now a centre of learning too thanks to the Annamalai
University. Just over 250 kilometres from Chennai and conveniently linked by various
trains, the main attraction for locals and foreigners alike is the awesome temple spread
over an area of 51 acres.
The shrine of
Thillaikoothan has four imposing towers in the east, west, south and the north, greatly
enhancing its splendour. Each of these towers rise 135 feet above the ground in seven
storeys and finish in 13 copper finials. The thresholds of the four towers are impressive,
being 40 feet high. These towers can be seen at one glance when one travels towards Killai
village on the Chidambaram - Pichavaram route. It is believed in Hinduism, "Gopura
darsanam papa vinasanam". ("seeing gopuras destroys the ill effects of
sins"). On either side of the Rajagopuram are sculptures of Bharatanatyam poses with
karanas. As Lord Nataraja dances facing the south, his banner is flown over the south
tower. The Lord here has his abode in two places. They are the Tirumulattanam shrine and
Thiruchitrambalam. The lord is known here as Mulattaneswarar and Thirumulanathar. The lord
is said to have got the name Mulattanesvarar as the energy of Shiva in all other Saivite
shrines withdraws into this linga after midnight worship. The goddess is known as Umai
Ammayar. It is in Thiruchitrambalam that the lord Sabhanayakar performs the eternal dance
of joy. Literature describes him as Koothaperuman, Nataraja, Vidangar, Meruvidangar,
Dakshina Meruvidangar et al. The lord here abides in the inner prakara under a golden
vimana performing the Ananda thandava and is accompanied by Goddess Sivakamasundari. Here
two of the five "sabhas", the "Chit sabha" and "Kanaka
sabha" are linked together and jointly known as ponnambalam and chitrambalam.
The ponnambalam rests on 64 wooden rafters representing the
64 arts. There are 21,600 tiles, which form the roof, indicating the number of breaths
taken by a man everyday. The 72,000 nails binding the roof signify the nadis or pulse -
the very essence of life. The supreme lord can be seen in all his glory by devotees when
the arathi is taken. To the right of the Sabhanayakar is a curtain. No images are there
within, but just a golden garland of bilva leaves indicating that God is present there as
space. Chidambaram is the "Akasa sthala". This is an excellent example of the
permeating omnipresence of God who is basically formless and abides everywhere. This is
what is often referred to as the "Chidambara Rahasiyam". Men are required to
pray here without their upper vestment. Shiva, as most of us know, is worshipped as Earth
in Thiruvarur, as water in Thiruvanaikaval, as Fire in Thiruvannamalai, as air in
Srikalahasthi and as space or akasa in Chidambaram. The most unique aspect of this temple
is that it houses a very important Vaishnava sthala which is one of the 108 Divya desas
sung by the Vaishnavite saint-poets, the Alwars. Here one can have the darshan of Lord
Govindaraja in Bhoga sayanam. He is watching and judging the dance competition between
Shiva and Durga which took place in Chidambaram. The most beautiful and rare occurrence is
that both Shiva and Govindaraja (Mahavishnu) can be seen from one point at the same time.
This, savants say, was to impress on feuding groups that Saivism and Vaishnavism were one
and the same.
 Next to the shrine of Sabhanayakar is that of Sivakamasundari who,
as the name denotes, is the very embodiment of beauty. Among the innumerable shrines in
the temple are those dedicated to Urdhva moorthy, Sarabeswara, Vinayaka and Subramanya.
The kanaka sabha, chit sabha, deva sabha, raja sabha and nritya sabha are the famous five
sabhas which can be seen in this temple. These were the venues of major literary
recitations, dance recitals and sacred rituals in the past as well as in the present. The
significance of the cosmic dance and the numerous legends associated with this grand and
hoary temple will be described in the second part of the story which is to follow.
(to be continued)
Ambujam Anantharaman
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