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The passenger train from Thanjavur to Nagore passes through lush, green paddy fields, irrigated by the waters of the Cauvery. The train is virtually empty and there is plenty of time to drink in the scenery and absorb the quiet and peace. In contrast, the town of Nagore is busy and crowded. It seems to be a small version of Chennai's Burmah Bazar, full of foreign goods, genuine and spurious. Visitors come in large numbers to the Nagore Dargah and the nearby shrine of Velankanni. Most people make it a triple pilgrimage, going to the Saneeswara temple at Thirunallar too.
The unique aspect of these three shrines is that people come to pray whatever caste or creed they belong to. Of course, certain restrictions permitting entry only of people belonging to certain faiths may be in existence, but this is not a major concern. The dominant mood in Thirunallar, which is just a few kilometres from Karaikal, is one of hope. It is usually the sick and the needy who come here, apart from the inveterate temple hoppers, that is. The legends revolving around this temple are so many and so varied that people come here for a solution to any type of problem.
Of all the nine planets, Saneeswara, the offspring of Surya and Chaaya, inspires the most awe. This is because he is said to hold sway over a person's fortunes throughout his or her life. Starting from the position of this planet in the horoscope to the corresponding placements of other planets, Lord Sani is believed to influence the course of one's life.
Of all the Saneeswara shrines, Thirunallar is believed to be the most sacred and the most efficacious. This belief has come about because of the various miracles which are said to have occurred here. The most popular among them is that of King Nala, of the Nala-Damayanti legend. He was afflicted with numerous problems because of the adverse effects of Sani. He was at the end of his tether. A bath in the temple tank cured him of all his problems and he felt as though a great weight had been lifted off him! The pond is called Nala Theertham and the place itself, Thirunallar, derives its name from
Nala.
Kalinga Raja is also said to have got deliverance here. Once Bhargava Munivar visited him, and he did not heed the sage's words properly. Bhargava cursed him to become an elephant and roam around in the forest. The king was essentially a good man and Sage Narada took pity on him. He asked him to pray to Lord Siva at Thirunallar, who removed the effects of the curse.
The main deity here is Darbaranyeeswarar, a manifestation of Lord Siva. He is also called Nallatreeswarar. There is also a unique vigraha of Swarna Vinayakar here. At the entrance is Karapaga Vinayakar, who bestows all good. The goddess is called Ambigai. To the right of the main shrine is the Saneeswara shrine. Since Lord Sani has a separate shrine to himself here, he is believed to be in a kindly mood. He is an "anugraha murthy", a granter of boons. Though the interior is dark, the flames from a thousand oil and ghee lamps lit by devotees dance brightly.
Many poets have sung of Lord Siva and of Lord Sani here, among them being Thirugnanasambandar, Thirunavukkarasar and Sundaramurthy Swamigal. "Nanniya Kulirpunal Puguthu Nallaru" sang Thirugnanasambandar, the child saint of
Saivism.
These and other literature tell us that the place where the temple is situated was originally a forest of Darba grass. The idol of Darbaranyeeswar appeared in "swayambu" (self-manifested) form. Darba grass is what is used for many Hindu rites and rituals, such as marriage, yagnas, death ceremonies, etc. The tying of the grass around the finger gives the authority for a person to commence a pooja or austerity. A place where this grass grows in plenty is, therefore, naturally considered the holiest of holy places.
With Sani Peyarchi, the transition of Lord Sani occurring on August 3, this is the right time to pay obeisance to this deity.
Ambujam Anantharaman
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