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 About
two hours drive from Mysore, through narrow roads and up a hill, lies
Thirunarayanapuram, a sacred Vaishnavite shrine. The temple is more
commonly known as Melkote, taking the name from the hill on which it
is situated. It is also called Yadugiri by the local people. On the
way up one can see more than 40 sacred ponds or "kulams".
Most of them are dry now, but in ancient times, bathing in all these
"kulams" was said to confer salvation.
The temple itself is large
and breathes history. It is very ancient – Vishnu is said to have
worshipped here before his incarnations known as the Dasavataram. Rama
too offered prayers here. The main deity is Thirunarayanan, also
called Chelva Narayanaswami. The "moolavar" is called
Sampathkumar, Selva Pillai, Ramapriya. The Goddess is Yadugiri
Nachiyar or "Goddess of the Hill". There is no separate
shrine for Andal here. Other sannidhis are for Ramanuja, who spent a
good portion of his life on earth here and Paramapadanada. Outside the
temple are shrines to Desika, Manavala Mamuni and other Acharyas. On a
hill overlooking the town is a separate Yoganarasimha temple of great
antiquity. It is quite a climb on worn steps to reach that temple.
While none of the Azhwars
or Vaishnavite saints have sung of this temple, Nammazhwar mentions
Lord Thirunarayana in one of his pasurams. Ramanuja interpreted this
as referring to Thirunarayana of Melkote. The town itself is peaceful
and calm. More of a village, actually. The same family has been
serving as chief priest at the shrine for many generations. After
darshan, they take us to their home and give us wonderful prasadam.
The cuisine of Melkote is quite unique. Unlike the Pongal usually
offered in other Vaishnavite shrines, "Ulundurai", a savoury
preparation made from Black Gram, is the specialty here. Another
delightful sweet is Melkote Manoharam.
 The
aged chief priest, who has lost his wife, points to her photograph and
says that she is his inspiration for continuing to serve the Lord. His
sons, daughters-in-law and grand children live together harmoniously
in the old fashioned, low-roofed house. He tells us that funds are a
problem, but somehow, they are maintaining all the pujas ordained.
Only once a year, during the famous Vairamudi Seva, do crowds
congregate in Melkote. This festival, when the "utsavar" is
adorned with a diamond-encrusted tiara, takes place every year in the
month of April. Thirunarayanapuram, with its serene and sacred
atmosphere, is a temple one does not want to leave.
Ambujam Anantharaman
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